Being awestruck by the beautiful formations this time around.  The kids were very excited to return to what they have deemed “Dinosaur land”, in part due to the animatronic T-Rex at Wall Drug in Wall, and partly due to the fossils they saw when we did a quick trip around Fossil Trail.

Our first stop was to explore Door Trail.  The path started out a boardwalk that wrapped around a huge rock formation and lead to a vast open area of smaller rock formations and crevasses.

The terrain was easily traversed.  I held my 3 year old daughter’s hand most of the time as the terrain was uneven and she tripped a few times.  My 7 year old nimbly hopped from rock to rock, feeling like quite the big explorer.  The kids turned finding the next, unobtrusive, trail marker into a game.  Nine markers in all before the trail end marker kept them on their toes!

The view was grand; simply awe inspiring.  The different colors of the formations, the varying textures of the rock, holes, caves, distant peaks surrounding this extraordinary place all made this place a joy to take in.  It instilled a sense of peace in us and the feeling itself is equally part of the memories as the scenes themselves.

We took in this view for a while, frankly disappointed that the trail was not longer, despite the clear impossibility of that option!  We then headed back to our vehicle and decided to try out Saddleback Trail.

A very short drive took us to the trail head.  We took photos of the formations along the way as it was all so different and lovely.  We geared up with our camelbacks, camera and some snacks for the kids and began the trail.

Saddleback Trail is, indeed, steep.  It was easily navigated by our 7 year old but I was a bit more cautious with our 3 year old.  I kept them both in front of us the whole time.  The path had loose rock/dirt and so was a bit slippery.  Overall we had no issues ascending the path; making sure to stop and take in the scenic overviews as our altitude increased.

The rocks near the top seemed to be from another world.  My son called them meteorites and space rocks.  We were all fascinated by them and we felt as if we were on the moon, or mars or some unexplored planet.

The real shock was when we reached the top.  The world shifted and, to our surprise, we were not facing a steep incline on the other side, but a level plateau.  To one direction we looked out over the landscape far below us and the path we had just climbed and the other an open prairie.  It was quite the sight.

The decision was made to extend our hike and to not take the kids back down the steep path of Saddleback Trail.  We parted with husband who did descend the trail, and my children and I headed toward Castle Trail.  My husband moved our vehicle to the trailhead for Castle Trail and started the trail towards us.  I was very comfortable with how well the trails were marked.

My kids and I followed the path and junction with Castle Trail – Medicine Loop Trail.   We set out on Castle Trail and had large rock formations to view, grasslands with gorgeous tiny flowers, cactus patches and a variety of plant life.  We came across clearings decorated with the most amazing variety of rocks that seemed entirely out of place in such am environment.

We took photos and admired the rocks, the tall rock formations and the crevasses we encountered next.

I both appreciated and cursed the cloud cover we received that afternoon as it cooled us down but also flattened out the light that would have dramatized our surroundings further.

Finally, my husband appeared along the trail which caused us to back track and share with him some of our favorite sights along the way.

Atop a ridge we spied a big horn sheep and admired him as he, most assuredly, kept his eyes on us.  We watched the little birds dance through the air and listened to their beautiful songs.  We caught sight of {chipmunks} – know that’s not right name- scurrying along the rock formations and were fortunate enough to find a pack of deer bounding across the prairie near sunset.

The trail was completed close to near sunset, watching the sky change dramatically as we crossed flat lands, boardwalks and crevasses.  It was an amazing trek.  Our children loved it and were able to keep up and handle the hike.  I did carry my little one for a short time, but overall I was very impressed with their endurance and interest in the surroundings and nature.

My family has fallen in love with the Badlands and are eager to explore its beauty further the very next chance we get.

The Crazy Horse Volksmarch held the first full weekend in June (June 1-2, 2013) is considered one of the most popular organized hikes in the United States with over 10,000 annually making the trek. There’s a start, and a finish line 10 kilometers away but when you arrive at either one isn’t the point of this volksmarch.

The journey through the Black Hills woodlands beneath the shadow of this gigantic masterpiece shouldn’t have a pace. The point of this one is to make it when you’re ready because at the top is the true experience. Awaiting at the end is the massive 87-foot face of Crazy Horse carved from the Black Hills granite to greet volksmarchers. You also get to share his view of the surrounding lands which are considered sacred to the Lakota leader’s people.

Its a family event that offers a once-a-year chance to hike to the top of the colossal mountain top carving. Everyone – from Boy Scouts, to church groups, to grandparents, to families with toddlers and even babies in backpacks – can experience the wonder of walking up and down the outstretched arm-in-progress on one of the world’s largest sculptures.

Another Crazy Horse Volksmarch has been added this year, Sept. 29 – 30, and these are the only times the public may hike to the mountain carving. For costs and other helpful information visit the Crazy Horse Memorial website.

Photo by Greg V.

South Dakota was recently named one of 10 best destinations in the world for wildlife viewing and Custer State Park is the main reason it made such an exclusive list. A drive on the Wildlife Loop Road through the park almost never disappoints but with over 71,000 acres to explore its best to park the car and take the road less traveled.

While hiking is allowed anywhere in Custer State Park, the great thing about it are the 15 different hiking and biking trails plus four horse trails found here, or at least connected to the park. True to general variety found in Custer State Park, lengths vary from 1 to 12 miles (one way) and ratings from easy to difficult. The views won’t disappoint on any of them, whether its the more difficult Little Devils Tower Trail #4 which is one of the best in the Black Hills or the easy breezy Sylvan Lake Shore Trail.

The wildlife is abundant in the park so hikers should take precautions and know what to do if a close encounter is found around the bend. Being armed with some basic pointers is all one needs to have an amazing time exploring the park one trail at a time.

We’re only traveling a couple hundred miles and we’ll be back home in just two days. But I’m a little bit scared. Most of the drive is familiar – south on Hwy. 44 to Interior and into the Badlands. Then back up to the Interstate, east to Kadoka, on through Murdo and a turn north on Hwy. 83 toward Pierre. But Pierre isn’t my destination; I’m on a trek to a small unknown pond in the vast outback known as the Fort Pierre National Grasslands.

Hwy. 83 is a well-maintained and fairly well-traveled four-lane highway that connects South Dakota’s state capitol to its constituents via the state’s main east-west thoroughfare, Interstate 90.

It is also the only paved road through the Grasslands, a discovery I made while studying a large map of the area while planning our excursion. After studying the options – “gravel road, suitable for passenger car,” “dirt road, suitable for passenger car” and “road not maintained for passenger car” – I go with the conservative “gravel road, suitable for passenger car.”

So when my gravel road of choice turns out to be a stunning demonstration of the term “washboard driving,” I can only murmur “suitable for passenger car” when my husband Art, with a heavy sigh, asks the tiresome question I hear all too often: “What have you gotten us into?”

I study the map and cheerfully exclaim: “We’re already half way there!” Just a small white lie, but luckily the washboard smooths out, and after passing by an abandoned farmhouse we turn down a short dirt road – with ruts that are thankfully shallow – and in less than five minutes are parked on a grassy ridge above a fine little body of water ready for us to explore.

Out come the lawn chairs. Art gets his fishing pole outfitted while I put together a quick lunch. He soon wanders down the shoreline, and I begin to settle into what is is turning out to be a delightful afternoon. The South Dakota prairie is at its annual tipping point – there’s the finest gossamer of green gently waving in the branches of several clumps of trees along the pond’s distant edge. A still cool breeze ruffles the brown spikes of last year’s grass. Slowly what seems quiet becomes audible. Redwing blackbirds crisscross the pond, their unlovely cawing interspersed with the lilting song of the meadowlark. A greve floats by, its smooth journey disturbed as it upends itself searching for a fishy dinner. The wind sprints across the pond, stirring up a glitter of tiny ripples.

So peaceful. So restful. But it’s time to get moving. I climb the little knoll that leads to the dam and walk its flat surface. Art looks up from his fishing and points. A glimpse of one turtle widens into amazement – across the pond dozens of skinny black heads stretch into the warmth. With the sun on the water, I can see their bulky shells tipping back and forth as they pull down and swim in the shallows. And wafting out of the marshy swales below the dam is a cacophony of croaks and occasional booms. Deep in the thicket, the bull frogs are singing their love songs while the blackbirds build their nests in the juniper grove high above.

What a wonder it is to see life carrying out its timeless circle far away from the hectic human scene.We are visitors here. Yet this little lagoon is such a sturdy refuge, such a haven of abundance – that our presence seems irrelevant. Tomorrow we will be gone, yet all this purposeful activity will continue. Unseen, a day will unfold, and then the night will come.

Two – then three – deer dodge up out of the thickets and into the outlying fields. The sun is still high in the sky, but the afternoon is beginning to fade. I turn back towards our little grasslands outpost. Wide wisps of clouds form the horizon, but there will be no rain tonight. Hours of light are still ahead. I settle back, my head tilted towards the sky. The redwings, the meadowlarks, the frogs and the wind sing on.

Weekend came around once again and it was time for a new adventure.  In all the years we lived in South Dakota we have never explored the Badlands…and with a perfect 65 degrees afternoon in front of us, now it is time!

Being familiar with the layout of the Badlands National Park loop we decided to start our Badlands hiking experience at Notch Trail.  Notch is a 1.5 mile round trip hike that is moderate in difficulty.  The trail was to lead us through a canyon, up a log ladder to a ledge and up to “the Notch” for an expansive view of the White River Valley.  If you have a fear of heights…you might want to stay away from the edge.  That aside, the view is breathtaking!

Our 3 and 7 year old traversed the terrain with little difficulty.  I initially had mild concern how our youngest would do, but those little legs couldn’t be stopped.  The log ladder was a little slow going when you are assisting 2 children and lugging around photo gear.  After the climb we found ourselves stopping to take in the views of the walls around us, as they changed shape with the light.  The beautiful wall colors glowed in contrast with the perfect blue sky.

All this provided the perfect opportunity to teach our children about different plants and animals.  We steered them away from the beautiful cactus, and showed them the mud dwellings of flying insects….watched numerous birds circle and soar overhead, we felt as though we could nearly touch them once we hit the peak.  The quiet, sunbathed landscape was our playground for a good amount of hours!

After our decent and return to the parking lot near Window Trail, we listened to the beautiful songs of the frogs/toads in a small pool as we finished the day with a magnificent sunset alight with rich warm colors and a gentle breeze swept through making the whole experience beyond words.

All photos by Greg + Shawna V.

Search for the sculpture capitol of the world on a map and you could find yourself pointing to the Black Hills.

Already home to the world’s two largest outdoor sculptures, Crazy Horse and Mt. Rushmore, the Black Hills is now also home to the largest privately funded public art project underway in the United States – aka: The Sculpture Project: Passage of Wind and Water.

The 21 granite hunks spread along two sides of Main Street Square in downtown Rapid City will begin to come to life this June when stone sculptor Masayuki Nagase starts carving them on site. Nagase will continue to work during the summer months over the next three to five years until the project is complete.

The Square’s landscape architect included the granite pieces in his plan with the intention of creating a major public art project and as a tribute to the region’s important sculptural tradition.

The architect arranged the stones in two series that he called “garden tapestries.” The reddish granite along Main Street reflects the Badlands, the grey stones along Sixth Street reflect the Black Hills. Two 35-foot-high spires stand side by side at the gardens’ intersection, symbolizing Rapid City’s position at the nexus of the two geological formations.

Earlier this month, the sculptor, Nagase, wrapped up a “community design workshop” tour to gather input before he begins carving. The artist met with nearly 600 people of all ages and backgrounds in small groups in Rapid City, on Pine Ridge, in Hill City, and Spearfish over ten days.

Nagase lives in California, is originally from Japan, trained at the Academy of Fine Arts in Tokyo and has worked internationally as a stone sculptor for over 30 years.

Everyone who attended the workshops had the opportunity to interact with a world-class sculptor on a personal level. Yuki left behind a fan club starter kit.

During the workshops, Nagase talked about his past work and his vision for the project in Main Street Square. He also did a lot of listening.

For artistic inspiration, he asked people to talk and write about their connection to nature in the Black Hills and Badlands. Turns out we all love to talk about our relationship to nature around here.

Nagase took it all in and added the information to his already prodigious knowledge about the Black Hills and Badlands, which, in turn, has informed his design concept for the granite at Main Street Square. Nagase will incorporate input from the workshops into his final design for The Sculpture Project: Passage of Wind and Water.

The artist’s work always centers on natural elements. For the Main Street Square project his visual design themes are wind for the Badlands garden and water the Black Hills garden. Through low-relief carving, he will abstractly depict the impact of these natural forces on the region’s landscape and inhabitants through history. His overarching theme for the project is transformation and the idea that all beings in nature aspire for balance.

Nagase views public art as an opportunity to develop connections among community members, space and art. He has plans for further community design workshops, developing and funding an artists-in-the-schools program in several Rapid City elementary schools, and holding an open studio at the Dahl Arts Center.

Passage of Wind and Water is a rich addition to our region’s sculptural legacy. The project joins Crazy Horse and Mt. Rushmore as a catalyst for meaningful dialogue about our shared values in the Black Hills community.

The Rapid City project also breaks new ground for public sculpture in our region. As we watch Nagase’s work unfold, he wants us to be able to touch it, get to know him, give our input and in the end have a major work of art in our community’s living room – Main Street Square – that is a tribute to us and our community past, present and future.

For more information about The Sculpture Project: Passage of Wind and Water, visit rcsculptureproject.com

Chris Pelczarski prepares to hide Easter eggs on the summit of Devils Tower

Chris “Tater Tot” Pelczarski, 30 — The climber, caver, storyteller, and Chicago transplant chimes in on rock climbing in the Black Hills and the importance of enjoying what you do.

I had never seen a cattle guard. I was like, “what’s that metal thing on the road?” I didn’t even know there were lots of gravel roads in the United States still.

When you’ve been underground for four days straight and you come out the world looks huge. That’s a neat experience.

The ice under one of my crampons gave way and as I fell back the tree root ripped out of the ground. At that point I know I’m going for a ride. I’m flying straight backwards. The three rules of ice climbing are, “don’t fall, don’t fall, and don’t fall.” I broke all three rules. I fell onto my ice screw and came to a stop hanging upside down with my head one foot off the ground.

I’ve climbed the Needle’s Eye seven times, and every time I’ve drank at least one or two beers before.

We climbed Devils Tower in Easter Bunny costumes on Easter. We hid Easter eggs on top for other climbers to find.

You’re always trying to climb your Everest whatever it is you want to do but what’s most important is to have fun along the way. If you can’t make it your own thing, if it’s just a list of things you’ve done. Who cares?

If you’re going out there to impress people you’re not going to gain much.

The naked ice climb inspired a lot of people. I thought someone would drive by and see me and go on through their day saying, “You’ll never believe what I saw today- a guy climbing a frozen waterfall naked!” I just wanted to make someone’s day. It made national news.

I’ve gotten into some serious situations climbing. I’ve described it as moments you wish you had a red button that you could push and just get out. That’s what I enjoy most about climbing. You’re growing personally. That’s what counts. Resisting that temptation to wish there was a red button.

I’m lucky that I don’t apply for the type of jobs where people Google my name.

Anyone interested in rock climbing during a trip to the Black Hills should contact Hill City-based Sylvan Rocks Climbing School & Guide Service by clicking the link or calling 605-484-7585.

 To learn more about climbing the Black Hills please visit the Black Hills Climbers Coalition.

 Chris’s work can be found at The Enlightened Image

This series introduces you to some of the unique faces that call the Black Hills home. Do you know someone that Black Hills visitors would enjoy reading about? Let us know by sending me a message in the “email this author” link below.

Next week (April 8-14) is American Indian Awareness Week at Black Hills State University in Spearfish. Events include the Kevin Whirlwind Horse Memorial Walk/Run, a free buffalo feed, a roster of speakers and the week’s premiere event – the 30^th annual Lakota Omniciye Wacipi (pow wow). It’s all open to the public and offers many opportunities to learn about the area’s Lakota Sioux culture and get educated on artistic, cultural and economic initiatives presently underway across South Dakota’s Indian country.

But, of course, it’s the pow wow that’s the biggest draw. And attending any of the many pow wows that take place throughout South Dakota is undoubtedly the very best way to take an introductory course on just what sustains and nourishes the indigenous communities of the Northern Plains.

To call a pow wow a social event is an accurate description, but one that does not begin to describe the all-encompassing nature of a wacipi celebration. Here in South Dakota, the Lakota, Nakota and Dakota tribal peoples gather to participate in honorings, giveaways, good times with friends and families, camping, sharing meals and reconnecting with each other individually and as communities.

Pow wows are participatory events, and visitors and tourists can join in some of the activities. Some dances are social and competitive, and some are religious and ceremonial. Dancing is the main activity, but hand games, pageants, fashion shows, drumming, singing and arts and crafts events are often part of the mix.

Very few experiences pack a greater thrill than a pow wow’s grand entry. Generally led by an honor guard, military veterans and elders in full regalia, all the generations enter the arena dressed either traditionally or in a contemporary Native style of choice. It’s both magnificent and moving – how often in modern America does an entire community celebrate its unity and pride, from infants to teenagers to young families to grandparents. Everyone knows that tribal populations across America face daunting social and economic issues. Pow wows are solid proof that Native American spirits remain strong.

Pow wows take place within a series of large circles, with rings of dancers moving clockwise in the dance arena. Contest dances are organized in categories, with some regional variation. General categories include men’s dances (divided into Fancy Dance, Traditional, Straight Dance and Grass Dance) and women’s dances (Traditional, Fancy Shawl and Jingle Dress).

Attending one of these breathtaking and brilliant events is something everyone should experience at least once in their lives. Everyone is welcome! But if you are a first-timer, here are a few pointers about etiquette and respect:

• Listen to the emcee so that you understand the protocol for each dance. You can join the dance when you hear the emcee invite non-Indian visitors to do so.
• Stand for the Grand Entry and for the tribal flag songs. Remove your hat for these events and when an eagle feather is dropped or when a song is sung for the feather.
• NO drugs or alcohol!
• Bring a lawn chair or stool to sit on for outdoor events.
• Ask before taking pictures or recording individual dancers, and don’t touch costumes or accessories.

So, plan on attending a pow wow soon. It’s the best way to discover and appreciate South Dakota’s American Indians!

Lloyd Shelton is the Food & Beverage Director with Xanterra Parks & Resorts, Inc., the park concessionaire that operates the dining and shopping facilities at Mount Rushmore National Memorial. Dining facilities at the Memorial include the Carver’s Café, Memorial Team Ice Cream, and a summer season outdoor kiosk.

Back in February, I spent part of a day enjoying the “family atmosphere” in the dining area at Mount Rushmore. I, along with several Xanterra employees, was waiting for the Washington Nationals’ Racing Presidents to show up for a small banquet event. Two little kids were having fun with a carpet sweeper while their mom sat at one of the tables doing paperwork. Kitchen staff members were setting up a couple of tables, but the pace was relaxed and convivial.

Lloyd was coming and going, making sure things were running smoothly in the nicest possible way. It was apparent that being a member of Lloyd Shelton’s team made it easy to enjoy working! Here is Lloyd’s story:

I came to Mount Rushmore in May 2008, after seven years at the Grand Canyon.

I started as a busboy at age 14. I’ve done pretty much everything you can do in a restaurant except be a chef.

It’s interesting any time you are working and get to meet 2 million people in a year. When people are on vacation, they are happy, exuberant. They see this massive monument, and some become reflective. Others are amazed at the work. By the time I see them, they have all seen the monument and are a little awestruck.

We do lots of banquets – upscale banquets. Last year, we took care of the Attorney General of the United States and one of the Supreme Court justices. These are official visits, but we get lots of unofficial visitors – some who are famous as actors, actresses and musicians. Every type of person in the world comes to Mount Rushmore.

Donny Osmond was in the park. I had to tweet my daughter, because when she was young she would go up to the TV screen and kiss it. She loved Donny Osmond.

There’s such a vast difference between winter and summer. In summer, we serve 500 people an hour. In 2012, we served over 500,000 meals. July 3-4 are the two busiest days without a doubt.

Buffalo stew, after ice cream, is the top-selling item. We feature five different buffalo items. Last year, we served over 50,000 pounds of buffalo, filets to hot dogs.

There’s sheer joy in doing the volume of business we do. There are days I can hardly walk at the end of the day. It’s exhilarating when you get through the day with your team. I did a pedometer during one summer, and was averaging 17-18 miles a day.

We’re very proud of our George S. Mickelson Great Service Award (2009). Last year, our employees received 64 individual customer service awards. Customers have to recognize an employee in writing, and we submit them. Ten employees were in the highest category. That means the person received three or more customer commendations.

Can’t tell you how proud I am of the team I am privileged to work with. Some of our staff are J1 students from around the world. That’s a visa program that allows students to work and experience the United States on their summer break. Of the 64 customer service award winners, at least 20 were international employees. That just says something.

“The Buffalo King,” an hour-long documentary by native South Dakotan Justin Koehler and Aaron Pendergast, is one of several dozen films that will be shown during the Black Hills Film Festival, scheduled for May 1-5 in Hill City. The film tells the life story of James “Scotty” Philip, a Fort Pierre area rancher in the late 1880s.

By that time, little more than 1,000 plains bison (commonly called buffalo) remained of the hundreds of thousands that had roamed the length and breadth of the vast grasslands from the Dakotas to Texas for thousands of years.

Fred Dupree, a former fur trader who later operated a successful ranch on the Cheyenne River reservation in north-central South Dakota, participated, along with his sons, in some of the last buffalo hunts on the Northern Plains. Aware of the rapidly dwindling numbers, the Dupree men captured seven calves in the spring of 1882, five of which survived to maturity at the family ranch.

By the time of Dupree’s death in 1898, he owned a herd of 57 buffalo. Scotty Philip, the Fort Pierre-area rancher credited with saving the buffalo, bought all 57 and by the time of Philip’s death in 1911, the herd exceeded 900 head. Custer State Park purchased 36 from the Philip Ranch.

The first Custer State Park Buffalo Auction occurred in 1965. Over the past 46 years, at least 17,000 park buffalo have gone to herds around the country. Many thousands of baby buffalo calves later, the bison population in America is estimated at around 500,000 head.

The Black Hills Film Festival attracts independent filmmakers from across the globe. Along with public showings of the films, the festival offers structured classes and forums led by notable film professionals.